This is NOT Champagne

Hello Loyal Readers, Hello Bubbly Lovers,

Buckle up. This is crazy: NV Domaine Bruno Dangin Blanc de Noirs Cremant de Bourgogne
 

The fact that this bottle of bubbly does not say "Champagne" on the label is simply a technicality.  

Great news for us.

This is a Cremant de Bourgogne, a sparkling Burgundy produced just 1000 Meters from the appellation boundary of the Champagne region.

The village of Molesme is an anomaly.

A single village home to both Champagne and Burgundy producers.

In Neopolionic times with the gerrymandering of appellation lines based on local politics, these parcels of vineyard were effectively omitted from the honor of the Champagne region forever.

Fast-forward a few hundred years and you've got young gun Mattheau Dagnin making smokin' would-be-true, and at a fraction of the price bubbles.
I wish I had a picture of this kid. Imagine a maybe-late-twenties, covered in mud, salt of the earth vingneron, truly inspired to make killer wine.

Along with his dad, Matthieu farms soils that are composed of clay and kimmeridgian limestone, soils so similar to those of the neighboring Champagne region that its uncanny.

The farming itself is meticulous.

Certified Organic and practicing Biodynamic.

Once the grapes reach the winery the primary fermentation proceeds only with natural yeast: a quality-minded approach virtually unheard of for a Cremant de Bourgogne.

All in all, the operation is tiny. A project, basically. The estate vineyards total 2 hectares. In an average year producing in the neighborhood of 1700 cases.

Not Champagne.

But as close as close can get.

Put it this way: these bubbles come to us from a Champagne ONLY import portfolio. This wine is the only exception.

Chill a bottle and pour a glass. You may feel like you've robbed a bank.

Don't worry. That's normal.

And with that, have a spectacular weekend.

Codey Foster CS, Wine Director

My Notes Read: Looks like Champagne. Smells like Champagne. Tastes like Champagne. Bubbles: quite like Champagne. But not just the average big house stuff. These are soulful bubbles more akin to great grower stuff. On the nose: fresh peaches, clementine skin, white flower, crushed chalk, a waft of freshly baked baguette and crispy croissants (very delicate yeast). On the palate: a touch of crisp macoun, white peach, brioche, and a very fine pearl. Yup. Could be. Should be. Master winemaking doesn't hurt. Drink now and over the next 5 years or so. The patient drinker could be very well rewarded. Too soon to tell but this could be a legend in the making.