FAQ: Organic? Biodynamic? Natural? Skinny? What does it all mean?! Label Lexicon Explained We get a lot of great questions about wine in the shop. Folks are more aware than ever about what goes into the food they eat, but what goes into the wine they drink is still shrouded in mystery, and worse, misrepresented. Here, we’ll address some of the more common inquiries we receive about what ends up in the bottle on your table. What does it mean when a wine is 'Certified Organic'? There is a much longer explanation than this, but in summary, it means that the winery adheres to a set of rules that they have to follow for a minimum 3 year conversion period. Fertilizers and sprays are permitted but must be certified Organic, which generally means that they are less harmful to the environment, the users, and the local ecosystem than conventional treatments, but must be applied judiciously to minimize impact. Additives to finished wine must also be certified organic, so some less “natural” ingredients are prohibited. Sulfites are allowed but their use is limited. Finally, they must submit to a yearly inspection by the guys that make the rules. Most notable are Ecocert and the CCOF. You may have also heard the term 'Practicing Organic' thrown around. In some circumstances, the producers are practicing organic winemaking and viticulture, but have not gone through the expensive and time consuming process of certification. For othersmeans that while the winery is not certified, they may have purchased organically grown grapes. No judgement passed, both are better for the wine.
Vincent Laval showing the differences between organically grown vines and ones that are not. Organic on the right, not so much on the left.
It means the producer is fully committed not only to a way of farming, but a way of winemaking... and they're usually a little eccentric. The concept of Biodynamics goes far beyond the grapes, and looks at the vineyards and winery as part of a universal ecosystem. Everything from the stars and phases of the moon, to the bugs that live in the dirt, to natural winemaking practices... everything affects everything! Rudolf Steiner is credited with the theory of Biodynamics which starts with the fundamentals of organics but takes it a step further as with previously mentioned lunar cycles etc., by actively promoting the soil as an ecosystem (including the organisms that live in said soil) through the application of specially prepared compost/manure that has been stuffed into horns and buried throughout the vineyards. It is not uncommon for us to hear, "Does he bury the horn?" when we go to tastings. It's weird, but it's a thing. There is also a biodynamic calendar that you can follow which suggests wine is more expressive on fruit/flower days than it is on root/leaf days (there's an app if you're curious to see if it's true). Overall, biodynamic wines offer the consumer a pure expression of terroir and grape, its pure juice... all killer no filler. If you ask the folks at Demeter whether you can be 'practicing biodynamic' they'll tell you it's like saying you're 'a little pregnant'. It's kind of an all or nothing approach. Governing bodies of biodynamics include Demeter in the USA and Biodivin in France.
One of those rare times where a term on a label means exactly what you might think, dry farming is the practice of growing crops without irrigation. In the case of vines, that means that since water is not always readily available in the top foot or two of soil the plants must work hard to send roots deep and wide through the earth, often resulting in drawing nutrients from varied soil types as they go, instead of just the fertile loamy topsoil. Practitioners and wine enthusiasts often claim (and we tend to agree) that this can contribute greater complexity and concentration in the grapes, translating directly to a more interesting wine. While “dry farming” isn’t a certification, and does not dictate any other growing practices, we’ve noticed that it often goes hand-in-hand with other sustainably minded practices.
What is 'Natural' wine? Natural wines are exactly what the name suggests. Natural. As little as possible is done to turn grapes into wine. Grapes are grown organically, no herbicides/pesticides; The soil in the vineyards is plowed, by horse or human, and cover crops are grown between the vines to encourage competition for soil nutrients. The best wine comes from grapes that have struggled to get there. Grapes are hand harvested, which means only the best bunches are picked and there isn't anything 'extra' in there. Fermentation occurs using only indigenous yeasts present in the vineyard or cellar. Sulfur is added as little as possible, or in some extreme cases not at all. No chaptalization, a.k.a the process of adding sugar to grape juice to increase alcohol or body in the wine. While the resulting wines may sometimes be a little funky or off the mark of what's expected, many are beautifully complex, aromatic, and expressive of where they came from.
Above pic shows exactly what is allowed in what methods of winemaking. Conventional on the left, Natural on the right.
The addition of sulfur to wine has been a topic of hot debate in the wine world for some time now. Just to clarify: All wine contains some trace of sulfites, as it is a natural by product of fermentation. There is no such thing as sulfite free wine. There...I said it, phew! So why do winemakers add more of it to their wine? Well, it slows down oxidation while the wine is being made and kills off harmful bacteria.
The “Skinny” On Lo-Cal Wine Grapes naturally contain sugar. Exactly how much varies greatly, depending on several factors. Grape variety, growing conditions, and viticultural practices all impact how much sugar ends up in the grape juice after harvest. The more sugar, the higher the potential alcohol. The fact is, many of the big brands that most people recognize, especially the cheaper options, will have significantly more sugar than many smaller production wines that usually only cost a few bucks more. The reason for this is as simple as it gets: humans LOVE sugar, and it’s not that difficult to get, especially in a mass-produced, conventionally farmed setting. Most of these wines do not have “added” sugar; they simply start with enough sugar to leave plenty in the wine after fermentation is complete (known as residual sugar). Companies slinging low-calorie or low-sugar wine are spinning what many winemakers have been doing for centuries: harvesting as soon as grapes are just fully ripe, and fermenting them until ‘dry’ (a wine is generally considered dry if it contains less than 10 grams of sugar per liter after fermentation, which equates to 1.5 grams of sugar per glass, or 4 calories from sugar). Another consideration is while a wine may have less sugar than other offerings, alcohol also contributes to the calorie/carbohydrate count. So, how do you find a bottle that isn’t packed with residual sugar, and all the extra calories that come with it? - First, ask! We’re more than happy to help you select a wine that fits your tastes and needs, Unfortunately, there is no perfect wine for everybody. However, we’d be thrilled to help you on the hunt for yours, so the next time you visit, be sure to ask for a hand. It is more important now than ever to build a relationship with the folks from whom you purchase your wine. Many wines can slip through the cracks when sorted simply by certification or labelling, so establishing a dialogue with the folks at your local wine shop can bridge the gap and make a complex and intimidating field much more approachable. |
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