Lustau Emilio Moscatel Superior (750ml)

"A most unusual wine, this -- a seriously oaked Muscat, and a sherry to boot. The most common sweet sherry of interest to fine wine lovers is of course a dark syrup made from dried Pedro Ximenez grapes but this is quite different. It is certainly sweet but relatively pale and has quite enough acidity and a real kick of tannin on the finish, presumably from its very obvious extended ageing in oak, presumably in a relatively warm environment. If you ever wanted to know the characteristic smell of such ageing called rancio, take a whiff of this, a solera wine from the firm that made its name via ageing much smaller lots of sherry in specific warehouses, or almacenistas. But the sweet, gentle, grapey character of Moscatel insinuates itself as well, making this a decidedly interesting, and thanks to the tannin rather bracing, end to a meal. With its strong spine of acidity, it reminded me rather of oak-aged lime cordial. Others have described it as mince pies in a bottle. I could imagine enjoying it with granular cheese such as a well-aged gouda (sherry and the Dutch, you know), cheddar or Comte."
-- Jancis Robinson